Ingredient Guide

Regulates oil production, minimizes pore appearance, evens skin tone, strengthens the skin barrier, reduces redness.

Among the most well-tolerated actives. Effective at 2–10%. Pairs well with hyaluronic acid, retinol, and zinc. Some users report mild warmth/flushing at higher concentrations.

Potent antioxidant, brightens dark spots, boosts collagen, protects against UV damage.

Most bioavailable form but unstable (oxidizes with light/air). Can sting sensitive skin. Use in the morning under sunscreen. Derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside) are gentler alternatives.

Antioxidant, moisturizes dry skin, soothes irritation, stabilizes vitamin C.

Well-tolerated and stable. Pairs synergistically with vitamin C and ferulic acid. Rare to irritate but a known allergen for some.

Humectant that hydrates, soothes irritation, and repairs the skin barrier.

Excellent for compromised or recovering skin. Very low irritation potential.

Brightens dark spots by inhibiting tyrosinase, fades hyperpigmentation gently.

Gentle alternative to hydroquinone. Use at 2%. Pairs well with vitamin C and niacinamide. Always use sunscreen during the day.

Oil-soluble exfoliant that penetrates pores, clears congestion, reduces blackheads and breakouts.

Start 2–3x weekly at 0.5–2%. Can dry the skin; follow with moisturizer. Avoid combining with other acids in the same routine. Not recommended during pregnancy.

Smallest AHA molecule; exfoliates surface cells, smooths texture, evens tone, boosts glow.

Stronger and more irritating than other AHAs. Start weekly. Increases sun sensitivity — always use SPF. Avoid for sensitive or reactive skin.

Mild AHA that gently exfoliates while hydrating; smooths texture and brightens dullness.

Gentler than glycolic; a good beginner AHA. Also acts as a humectant. Use sunscreen during the day.

Gentlest AHA; antibacterial, large molecule, ideal for sensitive and acne-prone skin.

Large molecule = slower penetration = less irritation. Suited to melanin-rich skin types prone to PIH. Use sunscreen during the day.

Reduces inflammation, fades hyperpigmentation, fights acne, calms rosacea.

Excellent for reactive skin and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Safe during pregnancy. Effective at 10–20%.

Kills acne-causing bacteria, reduces inflammation, treats inflammatory acne.

Start at 2.5%. Can bleach towels and clothing. Drying — use with a non-comedogenic moisturizer. Avoid combining with retinoids (oxidizes them).

Speeds cell turnover, smooths fine lines, fades dark spots, clears acne, boosts collagen.

Begin 1–2x weekly at night. Expect 'purging' and dryness. Use SPF during the day. Avoid with AHAs, BHAs, and benzoyl peroxide. Not safe in pregnancy.

Faster-acting than retinol with less irritation; anti-aging and acne-busting.

One conversion step closer to retinoic acid than retinol, so it works faster. Still irritating for newcomers — start slow. Not safe in pregnancy.

Plant-derived retinol alternative; smooths texture, evens tone, gentler profile.

Less data than retinol but no irritation/UV sensitivity. Safe during pregnancy. Pairs with other actives easily.

Gold-standard prescription retinoid; powerfully smooths wrinkles, clears acne, fades hyperpigmentation, and rebuilds collagen.

Prescription-only. Start at the lowest strength 2–3 nights weekly to limit peeling and 'retinization'. Always use SPF. Not safe in pregnancy or breastfeeding. Avoid layering with AHAs, BHAs, or benzoyl peroxide.

Signaling peptides that tell skin to build more collagen and elastin; soften fine lines and firm over time.

Gentle and well-tolerated — a good retinol alternative for sensitive skin. Results build over 8–12 weeks. Pairs well with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and antioxidants.

Copper-bound peptides that support collagen, elastin, and wound healing; improve firmness and tone.

Avoid layering with strong antioxidants (vitamin C) and acids, which can destabilize the copper complex. May irritate very sensitive skin — patch-test.

Relaxes the appearance of expression lines around the eyes and forehead; a topical 'botox-like' peptide.

Effects are cosmetic and temporary with continued use. Well-tolerated; often combined with hyaluronic acid and other peptides.

Humectant and film-forming protein that hydrates and smooths the skin's surface.

Collagen molecules are too large to penetrate and replace your own collagen — topical collagen mainly hydrates and smooths. Oral collagen supplements have modest supportive evidence.

Holds up to 1000x its weight in water; plumps, hydrates, smooths fine lines.

Apply to damp skin and lock with moisturizer. In very dry climates it can draw water from the skin if not sealed — always follow with cream.

Humectant that attracts water to the skin, plumps, smooths, repairs barrier.

Foundational, well-tolerated humectant. Effective across all skin types. Rarely irritates.

Lightweight emollient that mimics skin sebum without clogging pores; softens and seals in moisture.

Comedogenic rating 1 — generally non-clogging. Stable and gentle. plant-derived squalane from sugarcane is most sustainable.

Soothes irritation, hydrates lightly, calms inflamed or sun-exposed skin.

Generally well-tolerated but as a plant extract can rarely cause contact allergy. Soothing after sun.

Lipids that seal the skin barrier, retain moisture, soothe irritation, repair compromised skin.

Essential for compromised or aging skin. Pairs perfectly with niacinamide, glycerin, and hyaluronic acid. Especially useful after acids/retinoids.

Soothes, softens, accelerates barrier repair, mildly exfoliates.

Excellent for compromised skin. Gentle and rarely irritating.

Physical (mineral) sunscreen filter, broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection, soothing for irritated and acne-prone skin.

Less likely to irritate than chemical filters; a good choice for reactive skin and post-procedure. Can leave a white cast on darker skin — micronized/tinted formulations help.

Physical filter; broad-spectrum protection, very stable and non-irritating.

Often paired with zinc oxide. UV-stable, fragrance-free compatible with reactive skin. White cast possible.

Chemical UVA filter; absorbs aging UVA rays.

Photounstable — needs stabilizers; can irritate sensitive skin. Sometimes paired with octocrylene. Choose mineral filters if reactive.

Chemical UVB filter for sun protection.

Known contact allergen for some; banned in some reef-protection zones (Hawaii, Palau). Mineral filters are gentler alternatives.

Calms inflammation, soothes irritation, supports healing, strengthens barrier.

Excellent for compromised, reactive, or post-treatment skin. Pair with panthenol and ceramides for repair.

Antioxidant with polyphenols; reduces inflammation, protects against UV stress, soothe acne.

Beneficial but can be astringent at high concentrations. Generally well-tolerated.

Hydrates, soothes, supports repair, mild anti-aging, fade post-acne marks.

Widespread, well-tolerated. Avoid if you have a known dust mite allergy (cross-reactivity reported).

Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, spot-treats acne.

Essential oil — never apply neat. Dilute to 1–5%; can cause contact dermatitis. Skip if sensitive.

Rich plant butter that softens, nourishes, and seals in moisture; excellent for dry and compromised skin.

Comedogenic rating around 2 — generally fine, but very oily or acne-prone skin may prefer a lighter cream. Naturally rich in fatty acids and vitamins A and E.

The most effective occlusive; reduces water loss by up to 98%, protecting and healing a compromised barrier.

Highly purified, non-comedogenic, and one of the safest moisturizers — a dermatology staple for 'slugging' and post-procedure care. Fragrance-free.

Silicone that smooths texture, fills fine lines, and forms a breathable barrier that locks in moisture.

Inert, non-comedogenic, and rarely irritating. Provides the silky feel in most moisturizers and primers. Does not 'suffocate' the skin.

Fatty alcohol used as a cream thickener and emollient; softens and stabilizes emulsions.

Not the same as drying 'alcohol denat' — fatty alcohols are waxy emollients that condition and protect. Only an issue for the rare individual allergic to them.

Occlusive oil that softens skin and slows water loss; a classic, affordable moisturizer base.

Cosmetic-grade mineral oil is highly purified and non-comedogenic; myths about it clogging pores come from industrial grades. Well-tolerated and fragrance-free.

Waxy emollient from sheep's wool that intensely moisturizes and seals cracked, very dry skin.

Very effective but a known contact allergen for some — patch-test if sensitive. Often found in lip balms and heavy creams.

Prescription estrogen used in compounded creams; emerging evidence for improving menopausal skin thinning, dryness, and elasticity.

Prescription-only and controversial — use under medical supervision. Not suitable in pregnancy, breastfeeding, or with a history of hormone-sensitive cancers. Never self-prescribe from unregulated sources.

Potent topical estrogen studied for skin thickness, collagen, and hydration in menopause.

Stronger than estriol; prescription-only with the same cautions. Systemic absorption is a consideration — medical supervision is essential.

Adds scent to products.

The #1 cause of contact allergic dermatitis in cosmetics. Industry blends are unlisted (trade-secret). Best to skip for sensitive or reactive skin.

Scent and purported botanical actives.

Phototoxic (citrus oils) and sensitizing — common irritants even for non-sensitive skin. Frequent cause of slow-onset contact allergy.

Helps actives penetrate, lightens product feel, quick-drying.

Strips the skin barrier — increasing dryness, irritation, and TEWL. Long-term use worsens barrier. Cetyl/cetearyl/stearyl alcohol are formData emollients (SAFE) and unrelated.

Strong foaming surfactant (cleansers).

Harsh detergent that strips the skin barrier and worsens dry conditions (eczema, rosacea). Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) is milder but can still irritate.

Chemical sunscreen filter.

Endocrine-disruptor concerns and a known allergen. Banned in reef-protection zones. Mineral filters (zinc/TiO2) are safer alternatives.